When I try a new restaurant there are always feelings of anticipation mingled with a little nervousness. What if I don’t like the food? What if it’s too salty? Will this be a big waste of money? This was definitely not the case when Kings Row Gastropub invited me back to dine on their regular menu. The invitation was only met with eagerness and a voracious appetite giving way to indecision as I studied their menu days before my reservation. My friend Steffie joined me after work, and after having a rough start to her week, was happy to kick back and nosh on gourmet pub grub.

Though one could snack on the starters and appetizers all evening long (and I will be returning to do just that), Steffie insisted we go the traditional route of a three-course, sharing our starter and dessert. We began our meal with something that had caught my eye since I first read the menu – “Bubble and Squeak” – chef Thomas Jesse’s adaption of the British dish classically consisting of skillet-fried leftovers. He surprised us with the accompaniment of the braised kale with bacon and pine nuts.

Bubble and Squeak

This Bubble and Squeak – smoked salmon, asparagus, fingerling potatoes topped with a fried egg – was best when that egg yolk was running and mixed well. Take a fork fill of bubble, make room for some kale and get a taste of Nirvana (the place, not the band). Salty and savory, crunchy and squishy, this is one of those rich dishes that proves everything should be topped with a fried egg.

Braised Kale with Bacon & Pine Nuts

Now that we had some food in our stomachs, we felt good to order our first drink. Curiosity finally got the better of me and I strayed from the highly praised Fig in the City, opting for Bittersweet Jack – Jack Daniels, peach schnapps and apricot puree. Steffie joined in. It was a little too strong for a weakling like me, but definitely recommended for those seeking a stiff drink.

Bittersweet Jack

It was time for our mains – or as I like to call it, the Meaty Feast of Meats! For her main, Steffie went for the Organic Wood Grilled Hanger Steak – accompanied by steamed asparagus and thin cut garlic fries with aioli. I couldn’t keep my hands off of her fries – “potato” being one of my personal basic food groups – and the steak was cooked to Steffie perfection.

Hanger Steak

Chef Thomas Jesse was there to personally take the order for our mains and when I mentioned the oxtail Osso Bucco, his eyes lit up with excitement only a seasoned chef possesses, and a smile broke out on his face. He said that if he had to recommend only one dish, it would be the oxtail – definitely something “not to miss.” With the chef’s personal blessing, how could I go wrong? The only way to satiate my curiosity was to order it.
Satiated I was! Are there words to even describe this dish? Melting off the bones, so juicy and supple I never wanted to taste another red meat again, because how could one top such carnivorous perfection?
“This is divine,” I told a proud Chef. By the time the bulk of the meat had been eaten, I couldn’t take it anymore – I picked those bones right up and sucked them dry.
Don’t look at me like that, the chef approved.

Oxtail Osso Bucco with turned potatoes & carrots in red wine Bourguignon

For dessert we split an order of Donut Poppers, piping hot balls of dough coated in cinnamon sugar with a dark Belgium chocolate sauce for dipping. Worlds beyond the greasy stuff from your generic doughnut chain, this item is true blue comfort food as it was placed on the menu in honor of the chef’s grandmother, who would fix them for him as a treat.

As we began to wind down, two familiar faces came over to the table – Steffie’s friend Armando and my pal George, one of the dudes who run Comics Factory in Pasadena (my preferred comic book source). They had just enjoyed their own mega meal (I believe duck sliders were involved) and as we swapped food suggestions it became abundantly clear just how far Kings Row has come in a very short period of time. It hasn’t been a month yet and here are four locals genuinely enthusiastic over the food they have just gorged on. If that isn’t a recipe for success, I don’t know what is.

Kings Row Gastropub
20 East Colorado Blvd.
Pasadena, CA 91105
(626) 799-3010

Gracious thanks to our server Natalie, general manager Rob Rice, Lauren Lewis and chef Thomas Jesse for a wonderful, delicious evening. Meal comped for consideration. All opinions are my own.